A JOURNEY TO PULATKHAN’S LEGENDS

Since long majestic and sometimes forbidding mountains have attracted people’s attention. Conquering those peaks, they aimed at new lands and rich pasture for cattle; some were also looking for unknown flora and fauna. Mountains keep lots of secrets and legends, luring conquers, researchers or ordinary enthusiasts and romanticists with mysterious beauties and treasures. Today, with ecological tourism becoming more and more popular, the interest to our mountains and their legends is reviving. Tourists and travelers going to the mountains to deny or confirm myths, to feel themselves as pioneers and to see all the beauty and magnificence of the untouched wild nature with their own eyes.

 
Twenty five centuries ago Alexander the Great went through Central Asian lands with his armies. But freedom-loving people of Baktria and Sogdiana didn’t want to surrender to the conqueror and excited a rebellion. The mountain regions of the Central Asia turned to be the most problematic for the Macedonian army. The snowy peaks of inaccessible mountain tops have hidden the Sogdian resistance to Alexander’s conquest.  According to legends Alexander hid his treasures in one of high-mountain caves. His beloved concubine fell in love with Alexander’s companion-in-arms. Alexander had found out about that but didn’t punish those two, did not execute at least. He allowed them both to live in one on the caves. And until today it is believed that souls of these two young people are wandering in pursuit of Alexander’s treasures along the high plateau Pulatkhan, called so in an honor of cruel, but fair ruler, “steel” khan. This only one of the numerous legends about one of the highest plateaus of Chatkal range, raising to over 2800 meters over sea level in its South-Western part.  

Having a relatively small area of about 20 square kilometers, the plateau is separated from the surrounding mountains by vertical and virtually impassable rocky cliffs. Pulatkhan could perhaps be compared with an isle, unknown to many people and virtually uninhabited. Fancy relief of the plateau, its little known geological past and isolation from any alien fauna and flora attract mountain tourists and researchers. Still, there aren’t many of them: tourist groups have very slim chances to meet here at the same time.

The first researcher who visited Pulatkhan in 1948 was Mstislav Nikolaevich Korelov. This was the only expedition that conducted ornithological research of this region, described only in rumors and legends before that. Almost 60 years have passed since that time. And in mid- July of this year the student ornithological club «Phasianus» by the Facultu of Biology and Soil of the National University of Uzbekistan arranged a new expedition to Pulatkhan. This youth initiative was supported by the Uzbek Zoological Society and the «Important Birds Areas of Uzbekistan (IBA)» International Project that carries our ornithological studies in Uzbekistan. The main aim of the expedition, set forth by its organizers, was to observe animals and birds at the plateau, as well as to attract more youth to the independent research and scientific activities. The expedition took ten days, full of adventures, discoveries and scientific activities. The following is the story of this journey, as told by the expedition participamts.

On July 14, 2007 five members of our expedition, students and teachers of the Faculty of Biology and Soil of the NUUz, together with representatives of the young scouts club arrived to Aksakata river, the initial point of the route. Having rented two donkeys with exotic names Santa-Maria and Monica for food transportation, we went to the junction of Aksakata and Nurekata rivers. Leaving wide roads with automobiles far behind, we headed to the scenic valley of Nurekata river, abundant with fruit and berry trees. A heavy rain forced us to make an overnight stay by the Berkata river, just at the foot of the Kumbel pass. Real mountain route had begun the next day when we climbed along dry waterless riverbeds to Kumbel pass (2347 m), and stayed for the night at the high mountain pass of Takhta-Djailyau (2720 m). Altitude grew as we proceeded. Such a long route demanded endurance and patience from all of us travelers. But a rich reward for all difficulties and was ahead. Unforgettable places, marvelous landscapes, legends at campfire and many other adventures were awaiting us during our journey to Pulatkhan.

We have reached the Djar Mountain, 2936 meters high, and  found a place for another overnight stay at its smooth grassy foot. From there Pulatkhan, our target, was already visible. From here flat tabular peak of the “Steel” khan seems to be very close and easily accessible. The only way to the plateau is through its Western part, via Pulatkhan’s rocky gates. Upon climbing the Djar Mountain we reached the Mingdjilki track. This track is famous for its petroglyphs. Actually the track itself was named by ancients as Mingdjilki, which means «Millennial», because of these pictures and glyphs on the surrounding rocks: mountain goats, rams, deers, herders with dogs and camels.

On our long way through mountains we have frequently heard sharp and strident whistles of Menzibar marmots, endemic to the Western Tian Shan, not found anywhere outside its boundaries. This marmot dwells at high altitudes, it prefers places near big snowfields, where there is often a thick layer of soil and hydrophilous vegetation is abound. Menzibar marmots are rather frequently met at Djar and Karangur mountains, and on the very plateau Pulatkhan, the latter is especially interesting as a habitat of quite isolated Chimgan population of Menzibar marmots. The number of these marmots has sharply decreased during the last 20 years due to marmot hunting by local herders for their valuable fat, and because of the cattle, pastured in the high mountains in large quantities. Menzibar marmot is now listed in International and National Red Books.

Nevertheless, an attentive traveler visiting the region of Djara or Pulatkhan would relatively easily find a marmot peacefully taking a rest on the stone or running from one hole to another. This big rodent, weighing more than 2 kg, with yellowish-grey fur may can suddenly appear not far from your path on a high stone. Standing on its back paws it would curiously stare at you as you pass by, freeze then for a moment, give that distinct recognizable whistle and then rush away and disappear.         

Early in the morning or in the evening on the rocky outskirts of Pulatkhan plateau one can meet yet another local inhabitant - a mountain or Asiatic ibex. This wonderful animal with its spectacular horns dwells at heights from 1500 to 3500 meters in inaccessible rocky places. Ibexes feed between rocks on juicy grass carpets, gleaming with bright spots of flowers. These mountain goats confidently roam all over the place, where none of the other animals can pass. Neither mountain cornice, nor cracks, nor abysses can stop them. In case of a danger ibexes always look for cover between rocks, where they also rests during the summer heat.  

From Karangur Mountain or Pulatkhan one may have a chance to observe Himalyan griffons, even without any binoculars. It is a big mountain bird of pray, dwelling at the borders of eternal snows. With an incredible speed and ease it flies over the mountain peaks, getting higher and higher in wide circles. Seeing a flying griffon from below is really enchanting. The higher you climb, more interesting it would be to observe those birds, scanning their territories for carrion.

On the plateau itself we have noted 49 species of birds. The most interesting of them are Himalyan griffon - Gyps himalayensis, slender-billed skylark - Calandrella acutirostris, Indian chiff-chaff - Phylloscopus griseolus, wallcreeper - Tichodroma muraria, red-naped brambling - Sirinus pusillus, red-mantled rose finch - Carpodacus rhodochlamys, Alpine chough - Pyrrhocorax graculus. The presence of these species allows pronouncing Pulatkhan plateau as an IBA - the territory which is very important to study and preserve for its birds and other interesting species of animals and plants. It is known that the plateau is being visited by the Tian Shan white-claw bear, and during the last year herders have sighted a snow leopard here, lured by local marmots and mountain goats. 

Irina Gilfanova, a member of expedition to Pulatkhan and a second year student at the Faculty  of Biology and Soil, shares her impressions with us:

“For the first time in my life Friday the 13-th began so wonderfully! I’ve joined the mountain expedition “A journey to Pulatkhan’s Legends”. These were ten days of absolutely different life and absolutely different valuables. There were 120 kilometers of ascents and descents... There was an unusual world of people residing in the mountains, herders with flocks of sheep and herds of beautiful horses. Together with eagles and griffons we traveled over the mountains, feeling the vast boundlessness and heights, when everything was plunging into darkness, and yet you could still see the sunset.  There were stormy winds at high mountain passes that gave us an illusion of flight. There was that fresh balmy mountain air, and  clouds’ shadows upon green peaks, night bonfires, and astonishing stories of interesting people.

Three days at Pulatkhan seem now like months spent in an astoundingly interesting walking tour through alpine meadows with whistling marmots, amusing gophers and a multitude of birds. I have investigated a great lot of caves and grottos at the plateau territory, got an opportunity to watch close enough jackdaws, redstarts, birds of prey bravely flying in the immediate vicinity, still ignorant of fear to man.  They were really free… This was one of the most impressive adventures in my life. I only hope that similar expeditions would be arranged in the future.

Certainly, there would be. As soon as in August, students and teachers from the most hardcore bird fanciers will set out to another mountain expedition along a new route. We hope that the energy of the youth would one more time bring us an abundant scientific material for study and protection of our nature and birds. If you are young and not indifferent to these issues we’ll be glad to see you among the members of “Phasianus” Students’ Ornithology Club.

Oleg KASHKAROV