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AKSU-ZHABAGLY nature preserve

Aksu-Zhabagly is the oldest nature preserve in Kazakhstan. It was founded in 1926 and now has a status of a UNESCO biosphere preserve. The preserve is situated in the northwest spurs of the Talas Alatau (the most westerly branch of the West Tien Shan). It represents the main high-altitude flora zones, from semi-deserts to the snowy ice zone. Aksu-Zhabagly is a rich depository of rare, endangered and endemic species of animals and plants. The origin of the preserve's name is connected with the names of two mountain rivers  the Aksu and the Zhabagly. They are the tributaries of the Arys River.

FLORA AND FAUNA

The fauna of the preserve is rich and diverse. There are 238 species of birds, 42 species of mammals and other animals. Many of them are registered in the Kazakhstan Red Book of rare and endangered animals. Among such animals are the Tien Shan brown bear (Ursus arctos isabellinus), the Turkestani lynx (Felis linx isabellinus), the argali (Ovis ammon), several species of the falcon and the eagle: the lammergeier (Gypaetus barbatus), the golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetos), the short-toed eagle (Circaetus gallicus), the saker falcon (Falco cherrug), the peregrine falcon (Falco peregrinus) and the booted eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus). The Alpine ibex (Capra ibex), the maral (Cervus elaphus), the roe deer (Capreolus capreolus), the wolf (Canis lupus), the fox (Vulpes), the brown bear (Ursus arctos), the porcupine (Erethizon dorsatum), the stone marten (Martes foina) and the ermine (Mustela erminea) are also found there. The preserve is the habitat of the extinct wildlife species  the snow leopard (Uncia uncia).
Unfortunately, poachers can easily get into the preserve. There are even professional hunters who earn their living killing 'to order' rare animals  most of all the snow leopard, the Tien Shan brown bear, the argali.
The flora of the preserve is highly endemic. 27 species of plants do not occur anywhere in nature except in Aksu-Zhabagly and the contiguous ranges of the West Tien Shan. There are 1279 species of wild flora growing in the preserve and 57 of them are registered in the Red Book. The wild tulips are of great interest. They are the Greig's and the water-lily tulips (Tulipa greigii and Tulipa kaufmanniana). The cultured varieties grown in Holland are derived from them. The Greig's tulips break into bloom in spring. Their eight-petal corona grows to 30 centimeters across diameter. Such rare and endangered species as the maidenhair fern (Adiantum capillus-veneris) and the Juno coerulea can also be found here. The ironwood (Lignum vitae) is of great interest  rather than floating, the wood sinks in water like a stone.

The best time to visit the nature preserve is from the mid-May to the late September.
FORMALITIES AND PRICES

The first thing one has to do before visiting the preserve is to get to the administration of the preserve located in the village of Zhabagly. Access to the preserve is strictly controlled  permits are required (1050 Tenge per person a day) and as independent travel in the preserve is prohibited, it is necessary to have a compulsory escort from the staff of the preserve (800 Tenge for a group a day).  The 'escort' is simply that  an escort  and is not a guide.  It is possible to hire a guide  either from the staff of the preserve (1300 Tenge for a group a day) or from an independent organization (for example, 3750 Tenge from the Wildlife NGO).

It is possible to travel around the preserve on foot, on horseback or by car. The horse rent costs 300 Tenge per hour (minimum 2 hours). And only the horses belonging to the preserve can be used. An all-wheel drive car (UAZ or Niva) rent costs 500 Tenge per hour (idle time included).

SIGHTS

The Aksu River Canyon. The depth of the canyon varies between 300 and 500 meters and its width up to 100 meters. The sheer cliffs are impassable at some points. The sun-heated rocks and the mountain river provide the canyon with humid air and make for a microclimate of a “natural greenhouse”. Horse-tails, ferns, relic plants of past epochs grow here.

The Kaska-bulak rock carvings (petroglyphs) are situated at a height of about 3000 meters in an area of the preserve which is difficult of access. Over 100 various pictures were carved on the rocks by ancient people. There are wild and domestic animals, depictions of family life and hunting scenes.

Koksai Gorge is situated in the northeast part of the preserve. The easiest way to get there is from Taraz. The gorge is the buffer zone of the preserve. The territory is valuable for its Tugai forests (rare and near extinct species of tree), archa juniper sparse forests, mountain subalpine meadows and meadow-steppes. The gorge is famous for its virginal nature, for example, it is possible to see wolves at the bottom, near the river.

There is a Museum in the Zhabagly Village (in the building of the preserve administration) is interesting to visit since it gives general information about Aksu-Zhabagly. The admission costs 700 Tenge.

The Chokpak Ornithology Station is about 20 km from the village of Zhabagly. Over 2 million birds of 150 species have been ringed at the station during the last 35 years. There is an opportunity to take part in the process of catching, studying and ringing.

There are many opportunities for trekking in the preserve, a lot of routes for hiking in the mountains that run throughout its territory.

Discovery Central Asia #21

 

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