Author & Photos by: Asia Travel
In the previous issue of "Discovery Central Asia" we told our readers about the picturesque region of Chimgan. This article will focus on its surroundings that are ideally suitable for various tourist walks and tracking. The vast highlands of the Tien Shan provide inexhaustible possibilities for active tourism, alpinism and rock-climbing. Stretching across the territory of Central Asia from Pobeda and the Khan Tengri Peaks in the east, to Tashkent and Chimkent in the west Tien Shan is usually subdivided into three regions - Northern, Central and Western Tien Shan. In addition, we will talk about its Western outskirts which, by the will of God, are situated on the territory of present-day Uzbekistan. The Chatkal range is one of the most picturesque regions for tracking in the Western Tien Shan. The Karaarcha, Berkata and Nurekata rivers rapidly flow into cascading waterfalls into sharp descents from the Sipuchiy and Tumanniy passes. Rest and refreshment can be enjoyed in shady Gulkama, while the secrets and mysteries of Pulatkhan add to the list of interesting places in the Chatkal range.
Perhaps we should start from the most mysterious of all - the Pulathan plateau. Pulathan is a table-like top (the highest point is 2630 m) of irregular shape with rapid kilometer slopes falling to the valleys of the Karaarcha, Akbulak, Serkelesay rivers. Looking like an anthracite factory, the lifeless Pulatkhan mountain - "Steal Khan" does not have much vegetation, just short grass. The plateau is dissected by deep gorges, and the rocks have many holes with nesting wood pigeons. Presumably there is a ramified system of coves. According to legend, a family of Pulatkhan (local bogatyr) went down to the river through underpasses, escaping from their enemies. The mysterious, unexplored caves in the Pulatkhan slopes attract many adventurers, as well as the odd wandering bear. This is, in proper sense, a "bears' corner", so the travelers need to exercise utmost caution.
To climb the plateau, one needs patience, especially on the long, step ascents. Only one path leads to the Pulatkhan plateau, one very impressive path! This path is revitalized annually by new enthusiasts and romantics beckoned by Pulatkhan's mysteries. On the way one can see very the rare Western Tien Shan fauna - especially the Menzbira marmot. Its bouncy whistle rings through the plateau with the approach of a human, warning fellow marmots of potential danger.
In the middle of the plateau flows a small brook, erupting from cliff walls into many waterfalls. Under the influence of the elements, water, sun, frost and wind, the plateau's stones have been moulded into the most bizarre forms, the subject of many legends amongst the locals (even the landing of an unidentified flying object). To the west of Pulatkhan plateau there is the picturesque Tahta pass (2800 m), which sharply descends to the headstreams of Karaarcha. The most interesting place is situated downstream where the canyon becomes narrower - forcing the climber to pass the magnificent waterfalls by rock "shelves". An experience that will be remembered far into the future! Traditionally the walk ends in the well-known region of Chimgan - Beldersay, located in 80 km from Tashkent and 30 km from the village of Charvak. This region is acknowledged as a centre of ecological and ethnographic tourism, recreation and mountain tours and according to various statistic, as many as half a million people come here annually from Tashkent and its immediate surroundings, as well as from countries near and far. If one has had the privilege to visit these places, one falls in love with them and becomes a true fan of the mountains. Most importantly: "The best mountains are maybe the only mountains you have not yet seen". Thankfully, Central Asia is abundant with beautiful places such as this!
