From ancient times China and Kyrgyzstan have been neighbours. The relationship between them, however, has not always been close and friendly. High mountains, difficult and dangerous paths and regular animosity have not helped in the development of harmony between them. Only the Great Silk Road overcame these and other difficulties. The historical role of the Great Silk Road was not as highway for warring armies, but rather as a means to bring peoples closer together.
Time has changed everything people, mountains, rivers, climates… The Great Silk Road has also changed a great deal but has not disappeared without trace. Numerous routes have replaced paths with modern highways. Cars have replaced camels, horses and mules. Bearded merchants have been replaced with women. Numerous tourists from all countries of the world have replaced pilgrims and dervishes. How will the Great Silk Road be viewed in the near future and what will be its place? What can unite the different countries and peoples connected by this ancient road?
Travelling in the border regions of Kyrgyzstan and China, one cannot help but be amazed by the diversity and originality of the tourist sites: the Mogao Cave and Sleeping Buddha; the vineyards and gardens of Turfan; the majestic Historical Museum in Urumqi; the ancient Uighur Palaces carved out of the mountains and many, many others. An agreeable bonus to these monuments is the pleasant travelling conditions. In practically each and every small village you find small, cosy hotels where you will be met by smiling owners, clean rooms and linen, exotic and delicious meals. The condition of the roads is not always ideal, but the traveller will find much to marvel at. Driving through the Taklamakan Desert it is hard not to be amazed at the many kilometers of lifeless asphalt road with its white dividing line. It carries you along through a gap in the Great Wall of China and misty mirages. It is well known that many more tourists annually visit the Chinese province of Xinjiang, just over the border from Kyrgyzstan, than come to Kyrgyzstan. So why don't they visit Kyrgyzstan, just five or six hours away?
In Kyrgyzstan travel is not as exotic or comfortable. The lack of tourist sites is, however, compensated for by virgin landscapes and unique historical monuments, such as the mysterious Tash-Rabat, the enigmatic Son-Kul and Issyk-Kul Lakes, the ruins of settlements along the ancient caravan routes. There are two ways of reaching Kyrgyzstan from China: the northern route across the Torugart Pass, and the southern route across the Irkeshtam Pass, both of which are over 3000m high. In China there are perfect asphalt roads, but in Kyrgyzstan gravel roads connect the passes with the towns of Naryn and Osh. The working conditions of these checkpoints are extreme: there are no cafes or restaurants, the outside toilets are in a terrible condition. The checkpoints operate only several hours a day for just five days a week.
On the way to Naryn and Osh (a distance of hundreds of kilometers) there are no hotels or places to eat. There is one small European-style guesthouse in Naryn, and couple of others which are typically Kyrgyz in style. In Osh there is one old hotel and several small guesthouses. The once well-known oriental hospitality has been replaced by exaggeratedly independent indifference. The choice of places to eat is restricted. From Naryn to Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, the asphalt road is riddled with numerous potholes and uneven surfaces. Along the whole 350 km, there are no hotels in the local villages. There is no information for tourists. Nobody seems to be expecting them.
The state of affairs on Lake Issyk-Kul, the main tourist centre in Kyrgyzstan, is not that different. There are numerous hotels on the lake shores, 90% of which were built in Soviet times. They work at most for just four months a year. In the summer time (July August) there is no accommodation available for travellers passing through. This is in spite of the fact that prices for accommodation in the local hotels are comparable to European resorts and even higher at times.
The differences in the level of tourist infrastructure between Kyrgyzstan and China are reflected in other aspects of tourism development in these countries. Experts suggest that, within the next 10-15 years, China will be the most travelled nation in the world. Every year over 300 million Chinese will travel to various countries. It remains only to guess how many tourists will travel in China itself, but it is safe to say a large number of people.
Although Kyrgyzstan is not “threatened” with such a tourist boom, what is taking place in China can have a positive influence on the improvement of tourism in Kyrgyzstan. In this respect, it is inevitable that Kyrgyzstan has to maintain a relationship of mutual cooperation with China in the field of tourism - as well as in other aspects which are integral parts of tourism, such as politics and economics.
Unfortunately, little is known about the state strategy for tourism development in China. This is a disadvantage for Kyrgyz politicians and economists. An even greater regret is that Kyrgyzstan's strategy for the development of tourism does not inspire optimism in that it does not take into account historical and geographical realities and is not supported by reliable economic data and financial provision.
Traditionally, public policy in Kyrgyzstan has hindered the participation of Chinese business in tourism. It is not quite clear why, especially if the dominating role of Chinese consumer goods and services in viability of Kyrgyzstan is taken into account. Is it possible that this is all that China has to offer Kyrgyzstan? Is that all Kyrgyzstan needs from China? Hopefully it will be recognized that such public policy is mistaken and will be changed for the better in the near future. The strategy of tourism development in Kyrgyzstan has to take account our nearest neighbours' conceptions of tourism development (regional integration). With all this going on, China should be rated as a major strategic partner for Kyrgyzstan.
The idea and realization of the program for the revival of the Great Silk Road, which is being implemented by WTO, envisages an important role for the tourism industry in Kyrgyzstan. It is a great pity the program has not found support and development in Kyrgyzstan. Little is known about it in Kyrgyzstan. 
It would be good to be able to believe that the Great Silk Road in Kyrgyzstan will see changes for the better in the near-term outlook: that there will be asphalt roads instead of the existing dusty and bumpy roads; that uninviting and inhospitable service will be changed in the numerous tourist centres with modern hotels, cafes, shops, to satisfy even the most exacting travelers. As to all other terms, such as friendly locals, a unique natural environment, colourful customs and traditions of Kyrgyzstan's people - then we have these already. One thing only is necessary a new way of looking at the concept of tourism development in Kyrgyzstan that has to be based on expert analysis of successful models which already exist in other countries.
Author: Nicolai Schetnikov
Photos by: V. Alexanrov
N.Schetnikov
