Peak Lenin (7134m above sea level) is the highest point of the Zaalayskiy Range the mountain range stretching in latitudinal direction for 240km and serving a natural border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. It has a glaciation area of 1194 km sq. To the North, it slopes down to Alay Valley where Kyzyl-Suu River flows while its southern slopes drain to Sauk-Say River valley.

In Central Asia, there are 5 peaks higher than 7000m. Peak Lenin is among the most well known and popular among the world’s mountaineering community and that for several reasons. Its larger area is easily accessible by road: the base camp can be reached on foot or by jeep/truck with no need for heli hopping.

As base camps go, the one of Peak Lenin is highly rated as one of the most picturesquely situated; amidst beautiful Alpine meadows (at the so called “Onion Glade”) and not on the glacier. This greatly contributes to an efficient acclimating phase before and “decompressing” after the ascent, a factor highly valued by mountaineers. The route to the peak does not necessarily present major technical obstacles. That is why Peak Lenin can be recommended for those making their first attempt at high altitude mountaineering (over 7000m).
16 routes have been laid out to the top. Out of those, 7 follow the northern slopes from Achik-Tash River valley, and the other 9 take off from the Sauk-Dara glacier in the south. The latter is the more demanding in terms of accessing the starting point and therefore the lesser chosen. The most frequently climbed trail is the northern route through Razdelnaya Peak. Presenting minimal danger as it leads relatively level with the ridge, its disadvantage is the exposure to strong winds.

Climbers of the northern routes usually start storming to the top from ABC (Advanced Base Camp, 4500m). Interim camps are: camp2 (5300m); camp3 (6100m); camp4 (6400m). Hundreds of mountaineers from every conceivable country make the trip here to the foot of Peak Lenin in the hope of reaching the highest point of the Zaalayskiy Range. Today Peak Lenin has turned into a “Mecca” of high-altitude mountaineering.

Here in the following a few of the most relevant facts you may be interested in before making an attempt at Peak Lenin yourself.

Peak Lenin Mountaineering History
Discovered in 1871 by the Russian explorer of Central Asia A.P. Fedchenko, Peak Lenin was initially named “Peak Kaufman” after the Russian Governor General of the Turkestan Krai - Konstantin Kaufman. The height of the peak was then determined at 7134m above sea level.

The first successful ascent was accomplished by 3 German mountaineers, E. Alvein, K. Vin and E. Schinder, members of the joint Soviet-German expedition of 1928 organised by the Academy of Science of the USSR. They chose the southern route, from Sauk-Dara glacier and via the Krylenko Pass.

1934, the peak is conquered by an expedition headed by N. Krylenko. 13 Red Army commanders and 6 mountaineering trainers, all with no
high-altitude experience, and no choice but to follow orders and accomplish the demanding mission.
They take off on 19th August and make slow progress. By 29th they reach the crest of the Zaalayskiy Ridge and have but 250m left to the top. In view of serious chilblain risk they are after all forced to turn back.

On 2nd September, 2nd attempt, 6 mountaineers set off for the summit, namely Red Army commanders Ivan Loukin, Kasian Chernuhah and Anastasov, and 3 mountain trainers: two brothers - Yevgeny and Vitaliy Abalakovs and Stah Gonetskiy.
Excellent acclimatization allow a vertical gain of 1500m the first day. They put up their first interim camp (IC) at 5700m.
6th September, the group reaches its 4th IC at 6300m. First symptoms of chilblain found with Anastasov and Gonetsakiy.
7th September, crossing the 7000m line. 3 of the 6 then carry on to the top: Vitaliy Abalakov, Ivan Loukin and Kasian Chernuhah. Yevgeny Abalakov accompany his 2 other two team mates suffering from frostbite, downhill.
8th September, the 3 victorious mountaineers make it to the highest point of Peak Lenin, 7134m. Having planted a bust of Lenin, they begin the descent. Despite unfavourable weather and poorly-trained staff the expedition is a success, not least, due to the persistence and selflessness of the participants.
In 1936, the so called 2nd Sporting-Training Trek is undertaken including the ascension to Peak Lenin. 70 Red Army commanders and solders take part in the expedition. In full battle order, they launch the storm. Having reached 6500m however, they had to abandon their plans and turn back because of avalanches and mass chilblains. It was for that very expedition that for the first time ever, provisions were supplied by air. The “Ð-5” plane piloted by m.Lipkin had to emergency land, crashing into a slope at 5400m. To this day, the hull is lying there on a large rock, ever since referred to as “Lipkin's Rock”, by which one of the ascents passes.

In 1967, the first International Mountaineering Alpinada (Festival) was organised at Peak Lenin in honour of 50th Anniversary of the Great October Revolution. 300 mountaineers reach the top.
In 1968, the first ever parachuting decent ends tragically. Through poor calculation and strong side winds the parachuters get carried over the ridge where they collide with the cliffs. 4 perish and many more get injured. The same year, V. Suloev manages a successful ski downhill from the summit.
1969, a grande Alpiniada again attracts many climbers from around the world to the peak. Over 60 foreigners get to the top.
To provide certain conveniences for an ever increasing stream of climbers, in 1972 the first International Mountaineering Camp (IMC) is established at Loukovaya Poliana (Onion Glade).
In 1974, a tragedy shakes the Soviet mountaineering world. A team of eight women, the USSR’s very best climbers, led by Elvira Shataeva perish in a severe snow storm at Peak Lenin.

Still “we climb mountains because they are there” and because we gain the ultimate understanding of who we are, the meaning of friendship and of human nature. And so we will always carry on to conquer the highest peaks.

by Dmitriy Grekov