The first mention of the pass leading from Samarkand to Shakhrisabsz (Kesh) goes back to Arab, Persian and Tajik travel notes of IX-XII centuries. It was the hayday of the Silk Road and its branch leading down south towards the Indian Ocean was of prime importance. This particular leg was called "The Emir's Road" and the Takhtakaracha pass was indeed a considerable shortcut and still is today.
During the era of Maverannakhr, caravans headed south from Samarkand had to circumnavigate various mountain ranges such as the western flanks of the Zerafshan, the Chakilkalyan, the Karatepe range, all at a hight of between 1500 and 2000m above sea level. The Takhtakaracha pass with its 1676m lies right in the heart of Amankutan country and smaller caravans or individual travellers were able to chose the pass road.
A great many historical events, legends, and arguments rank around the Takhtakaracha and locals have many different explanations as to the origin of the pass' name, which most probably has changed many times over the last millenia.
The roots of "Takhtakaracha" go back to XIII century. Written sources mention «Takht- and- Karaj». According to legend-based evidence, Temur had built a country palace for one of his closest kinswoman in that very area. Takht means throne or bed of the czar, an area close to the heavens, the sun, god, but though such a palace did indeed exist, there is no explanation for karaj in this context. In Turan the toponymy of takht was frequent. «Takht i Suleiman» in Osh, «Takht i Daud» in Margilan, «Takht i Iskander» in Urgut, and so on, all indicating elevated areas or the highest point of a mountain range. Takht exudes respect and depicts a holy place.
The second part of the name is bearing much more riddles than answers. There are several alternatives. «Karacha» could be the distorted «Kara-archa». Similarly, «karaulchi», a patrol or «karakchi», a warden could be the basis of its significance.
During centuries the pass must have functioned as a defense, where travellers were patrolled. Situated at equal distance from the Iron Gate (just before Boysun) and Temur's Gate outside of Jizzak, two major check points, the Takhtakaracha pass served as a source of information from all the merchants, missionaries, dervishes, spies and other "foreign devils on The Great Silk Road"... Famously, Samarkand rulers were always very well informed and were able to take measures in due time. The pass at certain periods in history also turned into a border post. In 1863, with the colonialization of Turkestan by the Russians, the Takhtakaracha constituted territorial division. Some of the oldest akzakal, the wise old local men, still have vague memories of an Afghan border guard on the lookout for smugglers trying to ferry illegal goods from eastern Bukhara to Samarkand. It is therefore quite reasonable to interpret karacha as related to «karaulchi», «karakchi», and at last to «karachirik», signifying "guardian of the home", or "avenger of the people". In Turcic languages, «karajer» means «bad place», «black place». Why was such an uncomplimentary name given to such a convenient mountain pass? There are several reasons. The Takhtakaracha pass was an obstacle, we should not forget that, not suited to large caravans. Rain, snow, ice, landslides, floodwater, mudflows wrecked the bridges and paths, destroyed entire villages en route. Also, the pass was the ideal hideout for robbers and gangs, who were always at an advantage challenging the slow and cumbersome caravan or disoriented single traveller. The patrols stationed in the caravanseray on the pass were not always able to come to the victims' defense in time. Much earlier, during the time of the Arab invasion in the VIII century, the pass was simply referred to as Kesh. The Arabs, as all other conquerors up to that period, invaded from the south, this was centuries before the Mongol invasion from the north. Historic sources narrate fierce battles in the region of the pass, with the Arabs attacking the Sogdians from the city of Naksheb (today's Karshi) and Kesh (today's Shakhrisabsz), the pass was conceived as belonging to Kesh rather than to Samarkand.
It is difficult to determine the exact moment when the Takhtakaracha turned from oblivion into a major thoroughway, an important link on The Great Silk Road, which eventually opened up whole new trade possibilities and brought great fame and fortune to the entire region. Knowing that Amankutan was inhabited by early man, it can be assumed that pass was already known some 130'000 years ago. Once a thin path trodden by bare feet of Neanderthal people, the Takhtakaracha allowed over millenia the continuous roaming of diverse peoples and tribes into and within Asia, it furthered cultural exchange and fusion, it brought new languages, religions and attitudes to the region and beyond, out of which resulted for one the Sogdian state in the early I Millenium ВС.
And it was not only the brave, endeavoring merchants and their caravans who brought goods and change through the Takhtacharaka ultimately as far as Europe. An equally important role for world history play the men of science who were reaching the wealthy courts and the centers of Islamic and scientific studies, the madrassas of Bukhara, Samarkand, Khiva, via the pass. Not to forget the craftspeople who shaped the visual aspect that foreign visitors nowadays enjoy so much, the monumental Islamic constructions, the blue majolica tiles, the carved alabaster and wood pillars, that epitomize the Central Asian style.
On that same path too, missionaries brought whole new ideas. They were instrumental in broadening the horizon of the «Sogdian oecumenic society». The Sogdians and their country were well-known in the Near East and China. Key goods of international trade at that time passed through their hands, namely: silk, gold, gems, and papers. The splendid empire of Sogdiana perished when the Greco Macedonians conquered their land. To illustrate the impact the Arab conquest via the Takhtakaracha had, consider the fact that Islam was carried by the Arabs via the Takhtacharaka all the way to Dunhuang and Altai in today's Xinjian province, where they established settlements, created man made oasis and trading posts on the fringes of the Gobi desert and where the nomadic Mongols first came into touch with the culture and the script of the new religion.
The beginning of The Great Silk Road goes back to the II Millenium ВС and by the VI-IV centuries it had grown into the famous international trade and caravan route that raises so much interest today. From early on, the Takhtakaracha was an integral part of the Southern route through Balkh. Under Temur, whose birth place was in that same area and who made Kesh his capital, the pass gained the highest importance.

Near Samarkand two much frequented caravan roads, the Northern and Southern, met and interlaced. The part of the Silk road from Samarkand to Bukhara was called «The Tsar's Road». It passed by such ancient cities as Kumushkent, Ishtikhan, Rabinjan, Dabusia, and Kermine. Arab travelers of IX-ХП centuries reported that the entire stretch of road passed under magnificent crowns of thousands of trees, next to which arable land was criss-crossed by water channels, the aryks you still see today along that same road.
As earlier mentioned, the name of the road leading south over the pass was called "Emir's Road". Only 10-12 farsakhs (about 80 km) separated Samarkand from Kesh. The Emir's heralds overcame this distance in two days. As for caravans it took them 4 days including overnight stays along the way.
The «Emir's Road» was constantly under repair, re-developed and widened. The outmost attention was given to the maintenance of the section over the pass. Villagers from the neighboring settlements were constantly in demand for road works, especially after the winter months and the spring floods.
In XVII century, the "Emir's Road", then on the territory of the Bukharian Emirate, was given a major overhawl by Abulla Khan, well known for his interest in engineering. He added new bridges and dams and reinforced the most exposed patches.
It is quite interesting to take a hike on the preserved path, however, which gradually leads upwards from Amankutan, along a mountain stream and past remnants of a caravanseray. The ruins are overgrown, the walls have crumbled or have been washed away by heavy rainstorms but you will still be able to trace the outlines of the original rest stop for caravans.
Once the pass is reached, the path meanders down to the plains along stony mountain cliffs, keeping to the high relief points, i.e. watersheds. Here the path is wide enough, up to 8m, which allowed caravans to cross safely on the steep slope in former times. The outer edge of the road here was fenced by stone walls, so porter animals would not fall into the abyss. It also protected caravans from fall winds and snowstorms. Tracks leading off the beaten path to resting places were available at every stage of the journey. About half way, a covered shelter protected man and beast from the elements. At the same spot, a juniper tree stands alone, surrounded by thorn bushes and badamchi, bitter almonds, it is 300 years old and a pilgrimage site. Further down, by Kavnar villag, two streams merge and the ruins of a large medieval settlement, Chokhak Rabat can be identified. One comes across shards of ceramics and broken burnt bricks and the remnants of a pottery kiln.
The "Emir's Road" is not a path from the past. Visitors driving between Samarkand and Shakhrisabsz these days travel comfortably on a smooth bitumen surface leading parallel to the original Silk Road. No customs points, no Afghan patrol and no brigands await them, only friendly mountain villagers who will smile and wave whenever they spot a foreign visitor, glad that people from far away countries have chosen to once again travel on one of the most exciting roads in history.

By Murodkhan Hashimov