Afghanistan is the motherland of one of the most amazing civilizations in the world; however it is hard to find this country in the price-lists of travel agencies. And those who are willing to go to visit the mujahideen are not many.
Here I want to give you the story of one hitchhiker willing to share his experience with you. Actually, it is not so difficult to get to the homeland of prophet Zarathushtra. If you are short of money, it is best for you to go hitchhiking: it is cheap but good, and it is lots of fun. And that is what I did with my friend. Several articles from the Internet, a Farsi phrase-book, a couple of sweaters, map, passport, tent, money (180 dollars, a half of which I have brought back home unspent) that's all you need. Ten days after we set off we are, at last, coming to the Afghan Rubicon, the boundary mountain river Panj. A couple of questions at the customs and the stern face of the officer is melting into a smile: a student, journalist, hitchhiker well, you must be mad! OK, welcome then! We jump into the minibus and here we are flying like an arrow along a good motorway to the south. We decided on the most optimal route going around the country in a circle on an old road made as far back as some decades ago by the Soviet road-builders. Today the most part of this road is turned into a prestigious highway. The first impression
The Panj is left behind. In front of us there lies the broad road leading us through the boundless yellow desert into an ancient eastern fairy tale. The labeled rocks along the edges of the road mark huge minefields. Later, the natives told us that local extreme-mongers love to ride their crosscountry vehicles in these fields. Occasionally it ends sadly, but the number of enthusiasts for such a rally does not diminish. Here and there in the desert, caravans of dromedaries with their cameleers can be seen, muffled from head to foot in bizarre clothes. The muzzles of broken military machinery on the roadside haughtily peer into the sky. That is the first impression that comes after forty minutes' drive from the boundary to Kunduz, a northern Afghan town. "Welcome to Afghanistan!" that was a placard that I had expected to meet here least of all. On all roads there are lots of signs, such as "Have a Nice Trip!" or "Welcome to Mazor-Sharif!", andthelike.
Something about peculiarities of driving
Traffic rules that are usual for us, as well as road marking or the traffic police, do not exist here at all. Despite that, accidents are rare here. The Afghans boast of being the best drivers in the world. An old man who took us to Mazor-Sharif, was trying to convince us that in London you should just say that you are a driver from Afghanistan, and you will instantly be hired.
The transport industry in Afghanistan is quite well developed. With the desire and some money, it is possible to cover the distance between cities
on a plane. The main airports are situated in the major cities of the country: Kabul, Gerat, Mazor-Sharif, Kandagar; and the suitable airways connect the north, south, west, and east of the country. You can take an intercity bus, taxi, or hitchhike; there are private cars or trucks, or vehicles of non-governmental organizations.
Overnight stays and meal.
The Afghan hospitality excels even the Caucasian one. During the two weeks of our roaming throughout the country, there was no chance to pitch our tent! The Afghans invite you to tea straight off, offer a meal, and prepare a place to spend the night. We happened to sleep in different places: in cars, dining-halls, students' hostels, missions of international organizations, hotel rooms which were paid for us by somebody else, construction barracks, even at the police station. And every time we did not know where we will be settled for the next night.
For civilized tourists in major cities there is a set of hotels at the price from 3 up to 50 dollars per night. The amount of payment depends on your skills of bargaining and finding convenient places to spend a night in. The hotels are in the centers of cities, near famous memorials and places of pilgrimage.
 How they live
Life in Afghanistan is rather specific. For some time you feel as if you have become a part of some slow motion movie. These people do not hurry anywhere at all. A hundred and fifty kilometers of the road they would cover for a whole day, occasionally stopping just to lie down in a shadow, and take a nap. Then they find some other occupation, just to kill time, justifying their laziness with reference to the heat, great fatigue, and God knows what else. There Is a good local saying reflecting the these people's attitude towards the reality: "inshalla" that can be translated as "with God's help" or "God grant". The girls in Afghanistan are beautiful and charming, but to see them is practically impossible. At the age of 15 the girls put on a paranja, and for the rest of their life they have to walk in a bag with holes at the level of the eyes, that are cut in order not to run into others on their way. It is forbidden for Afghan women not only to open their faces, but also to communicate with other men (except her husband), and even to come up close to them. In Afghanistan they respect women, however, do not allow them more than is considered necessary.
Architecture
Minarets, palaces, and mosques bring us the greatness and beauty of the Middle Ages, militant attitude of Afghan caliphs, and aesthetic richness of the East. Recently, these fabulous monuments, following the example of the northern neighbors, Uzbeks, have been ornamented with Italian tiles and Iranian marble. Probably, in the course of several years, the original samples of the ancient architecture of Afghanistan may turn into modern pseudo-antique imitations.
Places of Interest
Our route ran from north to west, and then to south and east. In Balkh, a northern province, it is worth visiting the town of Mazar-Sharif where you can seethe majestic tomb of AN the fourth caliph and the prophet Muhammad's son-in-law. Several kilometers away from the center of northern Afghanistan, there is an ancient town where the prophet Zarathushtra was born. Here is the grave of the prophet, the tomb of Khodja Parsi, and well-preserved remains of an ancient wall of town of Bala-Hissar.
In Herat, you may explore the fortress of Ikhtiyaruddin, a mosque of Masdjidi Djami, and Musalla, the mausoleum of the queen Tokhar Shad. Kandagar is the capital of the Talibs, and ninety-five percent of the population remain loyal to them. Here you should see Chihlzina forty steps carved in a rock in 1522. The breathtaking view of the town opens up before your eyes at the top of them. In the center of the town there is the Djame Mui Mubarak mosque, and in the north, at the exit from the town there is an octagonal mausoleum of Akhmad-Shakh Durrani. The capital, Kabul, has not left any strong impression: a huge city lying on hills. In the center of it, there is the Chicken Street where souvenirs are sold. In conclusion I would like to add that what has stuck to my memory most of all is the amazing kindness and sincerity of ordinary Afghans. The new tendencies of historical evolution of the country, are unfortunately not focused on saving local values, but on borrowing European and American ones. The youth actively studies English and forgets to say the Mohammedan prayer. Therefore, no one can predict for how long this island of an ancient culture will be able to resist the influx of the civilized world's novelties such as Coca-Cola, mobile phones, and banks. |
