While I, we, dream of Bukhara, Samarkand, Khiva, Turkistan and all the other fascinating Central Asian destinations the way they once used to be, while cloth sellers such as the one I recently encountered in a photo exhibition at the Museum of Applied Arts in Tashkent are the type of men we wish to meet, reality anno 2005 is heading a different way. To reconcile a visitor's longing for times past and a nation's wish to appear modern is a balancing act that is almost impossible to achieve. Crumbling clay walls, yurts, unrestored majoliña tiles, patina, silk and spices, that is our Western heart's desire. Yes, there is still plenty of all the above to be found along The Great Silk Road but it is also true that some of the famous cities on this ancient caravan route are undergoing major renewal, which we perceive as just a bit too straight, clean cut and bland for our taste. Nothing has ever been straight, clean cut and bland anywhere East of well, you draw your own line...

Still, you want silk & spice? Then Bukhara is the city of choice, where from 5-8 May the Silk & Spice Festival is held for the 6th consecutive time, thanks to the relentless efforts of the city's Small Hotels and B&B owners with the support of the local mayor's office, who this year also host the General Assembly of the Crafts Association Asia & Pacific Rimm plus the UNESCO awards ceremony for seal of excellence bestowed to top craftsmasters of the region.

You crave crumbling adobe walls about 2000 years old? Then Ancient Khorezm, the area north of Khiva is just for you and you will most likely have the Kalas, the lost cities in the desert, all to yourself, Toprak Kala, Ayaz Kala, Jampyk Kala, they have so far been an insider tip. But that is about to change.

And most of all, you want to meet someone like the man in the photo? That is easy. Wherever you are bound to travel within Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan and beyond, you are certain to come upon the most colorful, interesting, friendly, hospitable and surprising people, whose lifestyle in many ways has not changed substantially for the last 2000 years either, whose customs and traditions, shaped by all those who once conquered these lands or migrated here, still are the most important part of their existence.

To make the most of your journey through Central Asia, I advise you obviously to read Discovery Central Asia Magazine but also to take your time, change your mind set and your rhythm, expect the unexpected, be flexible, go with the flow, linger, let go and try to look at things from a different angle. A journey full of unforgettable moments will be your ultimate reward.

Your sincerely,