To witness Asia's primeval nature, as she looked thousands of years ago is a gift for only the most fortunate. We went for a hike along mountainous trails in the Altai Mountains of Kyrgyzstan, on a trek offered jointly by two travel agencies: Irkishtam Tour and Asia Travel

EN ROUTE FROM THE KYRGYZ CITY of Osh to the Alay Valley, a small mountain camp by the name of Taldyk (2200 meters above sea level) is found at the bottom of an amazing canyon. Here, a river with crystal clear water flows through the middle of a mountainous forest, framed by multi coloured cliffs of incredible shape. The landscape is surreally magnificent, especially during sunrise and sunset, when blue shadows fall from the red mountainsides. Before their ascent to the pass, travelers usually linger here to take a rest and spend the night in feltyurtson the forest glade.

THE VIEW ONTO THE ALAY VALLEY (about 3000 meters above sea level) is revealed as the road descends from a pass just past the mountain hamlet of Sary-Tash. Further, the road runs along the bank of the Kyzyl-Su River, whose waters possess a red hue, due to the silt of the surrounding layers of rock, which are eroded by frequent thunderstorms. The valley is spacious and almost completely uninhabited; here and there, a few Kyrgyz yurts dot the landscape. The way of life of these people remains very close to nature. The land is almost totally uncultivated and is covered by tall grass swaying in the steppe. There are some patches of sandy desert and sand dunes (barkhans), and the harsh beauty of the immense fields of boulders - reminiscent of a Martian landscape - brought down here from the mountains by wild streams during periods of flooding.

WILD ONION FIELD CAMP (3800 m) is the main base for mountain-climbers from all over the world who annually climb Lenin's Peak, towering overhead at an altitude of 7000 meters. This famous and arduous peak of Central Asia was first conquered in 1 928, and has since, continued to attract adventure-seekers.

IRKESHTAM TOUR and ASIA TRAVEL'S well-equipped campsite is found here, on a plane at the foot of steep cliffs. From here, as if it were in the palm of your hand, you can easily see the blindingly bright icy summit and its glaciers covered with bottomless crevasses. At such an altitude, the air temperature never reaches more than 15 degrees Celsius at noon, and as darkness falls, the temperature drops below zero, even in the summer. The air is crystal clear, pure and thin. At night, meteor showers pour down from the sky, so close you can almost touch them.

Travelers need to rest here for three days in order to acclimatize to the high-mountain conditions. But, after the 40-degree stifling heat in the Ferghana Valley, a rest under the fresh breath of eternal ice, surrounded by primeval nature is blissful paradise.

A path runs directly from the camp leading to the clouds. On the way to Lenin's Peak, there is another camp at an altitude of 4300 meters, and, other bivouacs at even greater heights. The peak's altitude is 7134 meters. In 2003 alone, brave traveles from Spain, Germany, France, Bulgaria and Italy have climbed the peak. everybody was climbed the peak. everybody was amazed by the ascent of a sixty four-year-old Japanese woman who vanquished both the mountain and her years. One courageous athlete from Russia even took a ride down the mountain on his snowboard. Experienced guides and porters are provided to meet and escort all climbers. Excellent meals are served in the yurt-turned-restaurant at the base. Camping is as comfortable as can be, especially considering such conditions. Spending the night in a tent under the starry sky is almost as cozy as a splendid hotel room, but the impressions from such a night are ones you will never forget.