Focus. Silk Road in Kyrgyzstan

Wayfarer, be carefu!! You are here as a tear upon a lash!

Such an inscription on a roadside stone did not give travelers much optimism when they came upon the path, which led to the Tien- Shan - the Heavenly Mountains. After such hospitable and warm places as Bukhara, Samarkand and Ferghana, the severe view onto the Tien-Shans frightened travellers immensely. The gorges seemed to be bottomless pits, the rivers like infuriated tigers. The peaks shot straight into the sky, protecting an endless desert of ice.

BUT, BEHIND this icy wall lay the mysterious, rich, magical and beckoning land of China!
And caravans went one after the other. Some disappeared in dark gorges, others froze on snow-clad mountain passes under icy winds, but others happily returned from the magical lands, their tales kindling interest in others. And new adventure seekers, merchants, and warriors rushed to the magical country.

THE BURANA TOWER This is all that remains of the capital of the mighty state of Karahanid, in the town of Balasagun. The most famous poet of the time, Yusup Has Hadzhib Balasagunskiy, created his best works here. From here, the Chuyskoy Valley, caravans continued onto the Boomskaya Gorge - 40 kilometers of vertical cliffs and wild rivers. It took several days to cross this accursed place, whereas today, cars can speed past it on the freeway in half an hour, and the bravest descendants of the caravan-merchants con-quer the tempestuous waters of the River Chu in catamarans and kayaks. The spirit of risk and adventure is still alive in these mountains.

BUT NOT ONLY fear and misfortune fell upon the heads of travellers. Even the most ruthless deserts have their oases, The mountain ranges eventually disperse and open up to boundless light blue Lake Issyk-Kul. Like the warmth of a heart, this lake heats the enormous lands of the Tien-Shan.

THE TERRIBLE CONQUEROR Tamerlane brought his uncountable hordes here to the banks of the lake, monks came here to flee oppression and founded a monastery. The great Semenov of the Tien-Shan and Przhevaliskiy brought their expeditions here. And today, thousands of tourists flock together on its hospitable shores to swim in its pure water. But there is another category of people - climbers and hikers. They strive to get away from the warm beaches towards the cloud-covered peaks. They believe in the power of the spirit and the strength of friendship. Their path leads towards the blue mountain pass of Terskey-Ala-Too, to the enigmatic Lake Mercbahera, which disappears once a year, and then reappears, with majestic icebergs floating on its greenish water. Then, on to the Inflicted glacier, which is like a 62-kilometer snake sun-ning itself among the brown mountainsides. And all around is a parade of peaks: Mount Gorky - 62001, Mount Pobeda (Vic-lory), the Master of the Heavens - 74391, and Khan-Tengri - 701 Oi. It is a symphony of ice, snow and cliffs. And it is not only for a select few. Helicopters with tourists on board offer two-hour trips to fly around these fantastic sites.

BUT, FOR NOW we return to the caravan route, which leads us to the high-mountain Lake Son-Kul. Local nomadic inhabitants wander these lands, together with their families, tools, sheep, horses, camels, yaks, and of course, yurts - the main abode of any Kyrgyz family. At a height of 3000 metres, herds graze on the most green and nourishing grasses, and the sheep grow like yeast. In every yurt, guests are greeted with fragrant tea, besh-barmak (local dish of meat and noodles) and of course, fermented mare's milk, kumyss. This miraculous lake is alive only three months of the year. In September, the inhabitants migrate down to the valley. Snow covers the mountain passes. Avalanches cut off all roads, and the lake falls asleep under meter-thick layers of ice until the following summer.

BUT THE ROAD LEADS US FURTHER The Last oasis amongst the mountains is Tash-Rabat. To this very day, scientists argue whether this was a monastery, which also served as a caravan inn, or a caravan inn that was changed into a fortress. There are both guest rooms and guard posts. There is a common-room for prayer. There is a deep prison pit - Zindan. Either way, any late-arriving traveler could always count on some fire and a roof over his head, to protect from the brutal Tien-Shan snowstorms. No matter how you look at it, it is a mystical place. The surrounding sharp mountain cliffs look like the back of a dragon, on which families of vultures nest. All day these black birds soar above the valley, searching for their next prey. But in the night, bright stars converge with the fantastic starry river - the Milky Way, which lights the way further south towards the mountain pass Torugart, at 3800 meters, beyond which is beautiful Kashgar and enigmatic Tibet.

The road is conquered by the wanderer. And only to this wanderer will mountains reveal their secrets, present their beauty and "return here again and again.