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48 Hours in Bukhara

How unfortunate that the last Emir of Bukhara, Alim Khan, was hardly able to enjoy his property for an extended period of time. The Summer Palace, Sitora I Mokhi Khoza, and its surroundings are perfectly delightful and a nice contrast to the 16th century old town. Take your time to explore the different reception rooms, the harem, the textile museum in one of the pavilions, the shady lanes in the gardens where fawns proudly shake their tail feathers. The staff is helpful with explanations.

One of the most widespread crafts of contemporary Bukhara is gold embroidery. While in olden days only men practiced the art of stitching these delicate threads to velvet, gold embroidery is now fully in the gracious hands of local ladies. No wedding, no celebration, no Sunday stroll with the family, no interior design imaginable without shining patterns. Choose from a wide range of clothing and accessories to bring home a golden souvenir.

The Bukharian Jewish Community still counts more than 50 families. Their ancestor's contribution to the arts, the music, the crafts, the textiles which made Bukhara at one time the mysterious and coveted destination of many a tradesman and adventurer cannot be stressed sufficiently. A visit to the synagogue, the Jewish school and the soon to be opened Jewish Museum will allow you a glimps into the life of these modern and very much integrated citizens.

Bukhara with kids, not an absurd idea. Some private hotels offer baby sitting service and efforts are undertaken to provide more entertainment also for very young visitors. One option is the Puppet Theater, enacting short sequences from Bukharian legends and funny stories by Nasriddin Effendi in English. Summer stage right by Lyabi Hauz, daily in season.

Keep your eyes open for "The Keeper". This Italo-Hollywood production may come to a screen near you some time later this year. Shot to a great extend in and around Bukhara, "The Keeper" recounts episodes of the life of Omar Khayyam, who for a while worked in the magic city. Imagie, that's what Ark may have looked like, some 800 years ago. And while on the subject, "Dinner and Rubais, an evening with Omar Khayyam" can be booked throughout the summer. Your hotel will know more.

String instruments have their origin in Central Asia. No European bard from the middle ages would have stood a chance under the window of his dulcinea had it not been for the strings tied to The Great Silk Road, which brought the Oud to the West. Bukharian Masters hand carve a variety of instruments, they are delighted to play a short tune and let you try as well and tell you all about the history and their love for their craft and for music.

How far to the beach? If you think it's thousands of km's, errare humanum est. Tuda Kul (also spelled Tuda Cool) the huge reservoire will give you this much sought after feeling of being by the seaside. The large sandy beach on the Navoi side features cabanas for rent, free of charge changing rooms, chaise lounges under a sunroof, music, a shoreline pavilion. Ideal for a sunset dip do bring a bottle of shampanski plus mosquito spray.

The archaeological site and the museum of Paykent are a 45min. Drive from Lyabi Hauz and a must detour for those with time on their hand or on a repeat visit. In late summer, you may be certain to encounter a famous professor from the Hermitage or scholars from the Institute of Oriental studies in Rome on their archaeological expeditions, willing to tell you more about this Sogdian city from the 6th century.

Bukhara, Uzbekistan, through the lens of local master photographers, some of which have studied in the US. A visit to the newly opened Center for Development of C reative Photography, the Photo Gallery, will give you whole new perspectives. Traveling exhibitions and monthly themes guarantee ever varying angles on Central Asia. Located in the small, romantic Medresse opposite the Art Gallery.

A deep and unforgettable impression is what you will get when attending the rehearsal of Bukhara's most distinguished Shashmakom ensemble at the so-called Philharmonia. This extraordinarily complex music from this very area goes back hundreds and hundreds of years, in simplified terms it is the musical transcription of the highest Persian poetry of its time, a full cycle of makoms consists of six parts, which take the singers and musicians into a state of trance.

There are but two places in the world where carpets based on patterns in Timurid miniatures are being knotted; one is Bukhara, the other Khiva, both thanks to an initiative of the active UNESCO director. The Bukhara workshop is located along Eshoni Pir, in an old medresseh of the same name. The workplaces are complete with explanatory panels in English.

Get haircut. Yes, yes, in Bukhara. Especially in Bukhara. The ladies and gentlemen who deal with hair really know their trade. You may not necessarily want to opt for the elaborate creation in this photo but a great cut for something like 5 dollars, that's a steal and most of all, a cultural experience. The salons are a far cry from glitzy 5th Ave, but guess where some of the best manicurists and hairdressers in New York are from??

Discovery Central Asia #8

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