Even those who have no notion of the existance of Uzbekistan do somehow recall the mythical name "Samarkand". How many travelers have not come through here, since thousands and thousands of years and some have left raving accounts of the city's sp48 Hours in Samarkandlendor. Browse the internet, there are plenty of travel stories, tales and legends and first hand accounts, no matter where you are from, Spain, Belgium, Switzerland, America, Great Britain, Japan, Italy, one of your own countrymen/women may have written about Samarkand already.
Samarkand is such a multifaceted city, it is not the museum town of Khiva, no longer has the narrow winding lanes that distinguish Bukhara's old town, Samarkand is a city with a small town flair, where people really live a busy life. The fact that Samarkand was once a Russian garnison makes for all the lovely Empire style one storey houses which right now go through a real revivial, in the downtown area they are being renovated everywhere and their charm is being preserved, Art Deco elements included. Stroll down the shady University Boulevard any time day or evening for people watching and then turn right towards the downtown area, where many cafes and restaurants have opened who make real efforts to be "trendy" and original. And give it a few more months and the first boutique hotel will open its doors as well. We're working on it...

Transport
From Tashkent of course by your own private sedan or coach with driver; now that the Kazakh shortcut is closed, the journey takes 4h. By plane, twice daily, but seats on the IL or YAK may be hard to get; we recommend the smart way: by rail. The Registan train Business Class is a classy way to travel on FRI, SAT, SUN. 3.5 h in a comfortable, clean, brand new 6 seat compartment with a glass door you can close, complete with TV and a view over the Uzbek country side, from lush to arid, through quaint villages and the Jizzak hillside, friendly hostesses who on the morning train serve you breakfast, all this for around 10 $ only

Registan
By the time you will stand up on the street level platform, you will have seen plenty of photos of the Registan and still, you will be overcome with awe and as you approach the sandy square (which is nowadays tiled) you will feel dwarfed by the gigantic facades, rightly so. The morning sun shines onto Ulug Beg Medresse and the afternoon sun lights up the lion/tiger and the deers on the Sher Dor facade, bear that in mind for your photo shoot. Tilla Kari mosque with its interior laid out entirely in gold, will dazzle you. Take your time, wander around, sit down for a few minutes, a local may get into a conversation with you, surely, just enjoy the privilege of having arrived at the end of a long journey

Bibi hanum
The first blue cupola that will beckon at you as you drive down towards the big bazaar at the entrance of Samarkand is the one at Bibi Khanum Mosque. Immediately you will feel your excitement rise for you have waited for this moment for a long time. The wive of Amir Temur had a major influence on the cultural development of the Timurid empire; little research has been done so far, legends are our main source of information about this heiress of Ghengis Khan descent but we know that Bibi Khanum was a great beauty, a patron of the arts and a truly exceptional woman of her time

Shah-i-Zinda
The living Shah is the necropolis where Amir Temur's most influential advisors and teachers and his immediate family are burried each in their mausoleum. Time your visit to one hour before sunset, as you stroll down the narrow lane, blue and green sparkling majolica tiles in the most intricate patterns to the left and right of you, there are no words to describe the magic of this holy place. The perfect photo opportunity and a moment of absolut serenity. If the majolica have captured your interest, you may want to visit the state workshop outside of town near the airport in charge of restoring these precious witnesses of the Middle Ages

Gur-e-mir
This is the mausoleum where Amir Temur's remains lay. His bones were reputedly over 6 feet long. Descend the steps down to the grotto, hold on to the railing...it is a big moment and when you have re-emerged back into the sunlight, inquire about the phantastic coincidence? surrounding the excavation of the tomb in the 1940's. Legend has it that an inscription on the site stated no one was to touch the marble cast ever or a great war would erupt. A Russian archaeological expedition however... patience, your guide will know all about it and there is a happy ending to it in some ways. If you ever get a chance to watch the Russian documentary on the "Amir Temur affaire", don't miss out

Hotel
You have ample choice for your accommodation, from luxury chain hotels to tiny family B&B's where hardly anyone speaks English but where you'll still understand your host splendidly, for providing food and shelter for travelers has always been and still is the very essence of The Great Silk Road and the people of Samarkand are champion hosts.
Afrosiab Palace is the largest hotel in Samarkand right opposite Gur E Mir featuring Lobby Lounge and different cafes and restaurants. Pool area and Spa. Rooms see ad page 15; Orient Star Hotel is a mid size hotel with all conveniences, Lobby Lounge bar, souvenir shop and a beautiful dining hall a few minutes by car from Registan square; see ad page 13; deep in the heart of the old town a charming B&B in the original setting, Legends of Samarkand, lovingly restored, with an antiques filled court yard, for you to linger under the shade of the old mullberry tree, rooms featuring select furnishings and local textiles, see ad page 15; two sisters, one fluent in English, one fluent in German run the quaint B&B Mukhandis, right by Gur E Mir, a real insider tip for those in search of delicious home cooking, a wild court yard garden, cozy rooms, an intellectual conversation with the owners or an exchange with interesting travelers from around the globe

Shopping
On your excursions through Samarkand's famous monuments you will come across plenty of vendors and crafts people, where once pious students lived and learnt in their cells today locals are selling textile articles including suzanis from all over Central Asia, just completed miniature paintings, knick-nack with obscure origins traded through wandering gipsies, wood carved Koran holders, antique and new jewelry, puppets, skull caps and so much more. You find something in every price range. The very orderly lobby shops at Afrosiab Hotel open late during season and the shops at Shah I Zinda can be recommended for their knowledgeable sales people and the Museum shop for the range of their articles. For fresh produce enter the big bazaar just behind Bibi Khanum Mosque, every month of the year you will find seasonal fruits, vegetables and herbs, honey, spices, nuts and dried fruits, don't forget to bargain (a bit) and don't be shy about it, the bazaaris will appreciate the back and forth and you will be treated to a real oriental experience. Everybody is extremely friendly and you do not have to feel obliged to buy. Just up the road from Bibi Khanum towards the museum on the right hand side, a large sign post will draw your attention to a really nicely appointed boutique, where local ladies taylor fashionable and very wearable jackets, blouses and dresses made from no longer produced local textiles to western taste but with the eastern flaire. Also pay a visit to the Samarkand Picture Gallery off the Boulevard, they have one of the best Lakai embroidery collections and crafts from all over the region. The Vinzavod, the wine factory can be visited and they have an on site shop, wine from Samarkand, what a unique present that will make. Also highly recommended is Berkut, a locally produced cognac and Samarkand Balsam, which makes for a nice "grog" type of tea for winter visitors but not only. There is a longstanding and well stocked liquor store along the road between Registan and Afrosiab. Mineral water, by the way, is available at all hours at almost every street corner downtown

Eating out
The choice is now excellent, contrary to a few years ago. The downtown area along Sharof Rashidov street and its parallels has developed into a real restaurant square mile. Don't get mislead by the term CAFE, what we consider restaurants are often called cafe in Russian. Starting from the upscale Cafe Afrodite, eat your way through Cafe Pink Floyd and further towards downtown through Old Town, the cozy woodfurnished restaurant and beer bar with original design ideas ; do you long to dig your teeth into large, juicy chunks of meet no fat? The Kavkaski Shashlik place next to Sher Dor Hotel is where you should head to, pork, beef, lamb, they all taste delicious, just off the street side charcoal grill. Along Sharof Rashidov Street you find the entirely wood clad Traktir opposite the Museum of Local Lore (kraivetsheski muzei) and to the right around the corner past Restaurant Tumor, one of the best now in Samarkand, stop by Cafe Platan puts emphasis on design, its outside deck is a great success. Finally, do not forget your own hotel, upon request, most everyone will be glad to serve you a meal to your choice