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Culture Shock. Plov festival

The Ark, a majestic ancient fortress attracts widespread visitors to Bukhara. Occupying about 4 hectares in the centre of Bukhara, it towers almost 20 metres above the town. Built by the townsfolk this historical site was repeatedly an arena of impetuous events. Respectable elderly mullahs, with their famous wispy white beards, narrate bygone stories of life within the Ark, everyday happenings, traditions and habits. Historians too, have stories to tell, recollecting moments of Emirs and events of ancient Bukhara.

One such epic is Dckchapazi. This plov preparing competition was one of the highlights of the monarchs in old Central Asia stretching as far as the court of Bukhara's Emirs. The meal prepared solely by men, was their pride and joy - excellent plov was a sign of good breeding.

Each contest varied in number and category depending on the participants and their skills. Abdulakhad Khan invited only 8-10 participants within his group, and his descendant Alim Khan held contests with almost double the number. Alim Khan extended the competition to his commander, Little Ibragim (aptly named due to his stature). He chose between 15-20 soldiers aging between 18-20 years to participate in this contest.

All participants were provided with the same ingredients with identical fireplaces. Each participant was self-sufficient: cutting the meat, melting down the fat, washing the rice and so on. Only the Emir's makhram was permitted to light the fire and assist with the initial preparations. Each competition was accompanied with raucous laughter, jokes and goodwill. If someone dared to step away from his cauldron, other participants would try to spoil his plov by adding too much salt or pepper. Such pranks were par for the course, making the event a festive one. When the cooking was over, each participant presented his concoction to the Emir, who upon tasting it, commented either positively or negatively. When he liked the plov he questioned the cook and kept him in mind. This form of amusement was so popular that dastarkhanchi always kept a well-stocked pantry for impromptu tournaments.

This competition, aptly named Plov's Festival, continues its traditions today. Chefs compete from many districts, but the competition is only held in Bukhara, the town of its origin. The lucky winners walk away with gifts and diplomas, whilst the losers vow to return and avenge the winners.

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