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Fashion. Block Printing

The art of block printing material came into existence many centuries ago. Printed cloth was originally formulated for serviceable items such as dresses, scarves, the lining of men's gowns, tablecloths, bedspreads and for funeral shrouds. With the advent of industrialization this unique art almost became obsolete in Uzbekistan.

Currently only Mr. Solidjon Akhmadulaev from Margilan, the Rakhirnov brothers from Tashkent and the Ribyanov-Nikitina family from Samarkand are making traditionally block printed textiles.
The cotton fabric is initially saturated with a specific solution, thereafter the artists carve patterns into handmade wooden or rubber stamps (koliba). The stamp is then pressed into a natural dye, which is repeatedly applied to the material, Many of the varying designs incorporate fruit, animals and nature.

Mr. Akhmadulaev displays his artistic flair using antique wooden stamps for edging, and uniquely adorning the central panels with modern designs. He merges new motifs into his work, never repeating previous designs. The Rakhimovs have stepped away from traditional technology using rubber stamps. Each swatch of cloth embraces nuances of an ancient technology.

Elena Ladik
Art Criticism

 

The earliest block printing in Uzbekistan dates as far back as the 11th century. Chidgaron, translated means "town of blockprinters" is one such town that widely trades block-printed fabric. Items such as scarves (sarfuta), prayer mats (joynamaz), table cloths (dastorkhon) and mats (curpacha) are amongst the most popular items being sold. Floral depictions, geometric figures and symbols of astronomy are common fabric designs.

The black patterns are printed onto the cotton cloth with the use of handmade wooden stamps. A black dye, which is used on all blockprints, is naturally produced from an iron oxide compound. The contrasting maroon dye is obtained from the root of a madder plant. After the dye has been mixed to the appropriate colour, gum is leached from neighbouring apricot trees which helps thickens the dye. Numerous stages of soaking and washing is necessary to achieve the desired effect. This specific technique of block printing is unique to Bukhara.

Malika Khabibova has a degree in applied arts. She qualified as an art history teacher, specializing in textiles. In 1997, she delivered a workshop on block printing in Samarkand, for UNESCO.
tel: +998 (662) 2243765
e-mail: jahongir@bukhara.net

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