The spirit of Central Asia can of course be found in the bazaar. Food plays a major role in the life of Uzbeks, and rightly so. The fruit and vegetables available are among the most delicious in the world. For a gourmet experience visit Alayski Bazaar, on Amir Temur Avenue. The morning is the best time to visit as the vendors who, with their colorful personalities, stand behind carefully arranged pyramids of the best from Uzbekistan's fields, orchards, farms and rivers. As prospective buyers inspect each item with the eyes of a connoisseur's eye, it is a good idea to take fantastic shots of bustling bazaar life, Also check out the imported food section with fine cheeses, sausages and caviar - a jar of red caviar for two plus a bottle of champagne will come up to less than ten thousand soum. A personal carrier service is also avail cultural able for a few hundred soum - a strong young man with a shopping cart who will help and guide you.

The Board of Arts' Centre for Modern Art and Photography is a dynamic platform for established and emerging artists. Its calendar of events includes exhibitions of fine arts and textiles, musical evenings and lectures and its new Central Asian architectural style provides an ideal backdrop. On your way out, purchase a copy of Sana't Magazine, the quarteriy arts journal which gives you a good overview of what is going on in the arts scene in Uzbekistan, English editions are available for 2000 Sum. Admission to the museum is free.

On Shota Rustavely and Glinka Street, two bookstores invite you to browse through their excellent selection of Russian and English standard works on arts & crafts and the history of Central Asia. Both shops stock out-of-print publications (reprinting and publishing certainly needs to see a revival in Uzbekistan). There is plenty of written, unpublished material in which specialists elaborate on a range of subjects pertaining to Central Asia, providing excellent insight into the fascinating history of the area. I bought a small book on Central Asian Miniature Paintings by the grand dame of archaeology, Pugatchenkova, for an incredible 2400 Sum. Next door, in the same building, at the antique shop, I take a closer look at some rare Lakai embroidery. Well, those are in a different price range.

One way to spend a delightful evening, even as non-Uzbek or Russian speaker is to let the Youth The are of Uzbekistan sweep you off into the magic world of fantasy. "Omar Khayyman Constellation" or "The Litle Mach Girl" by Andersen are some of their best performances. Currently the charismatic Artistic Director, Nabi Abdurakhmanov and his staff are planning "Humo" the international Festival of Youth Theatres. This festival will be bursting with music and dance with joint performances, promising to become one of the season's hot tickets. Performances start at various times, call for info on tel/fax 1441089. The ticket booth is open dally from 10am till 5pm except Mondays and seats are available for 500 Sums. The Theatre is located in Navoi Street on the corner of Abay Street, near Metro Navoi or Pakhtakor.

Thursday and Friday nights, head for the Hotel InterContinental's Rendez Vous bar, you may be greeted with a soulful live rendition of "The Girl From Ipanema" or a swinging "take the A train".

The bar's hip Jazzmen will play your favorite standards while you sip a Cocktail or have a glass of wine in a classy but relaxed Atmosphere and they'll be happy to share their views "take the A train".

To get to the next destination, I have the waiter call a Taxi Voyage 1336767, they call you back to let you know the car has arrived so you need not stand around in the heat, waiting.

By the way, when in Samarkand, the place for Jazz is Cafe Blues on Amir Temur (ex Frunze) Street, where Edik plays nightly except Sundays.

Let's make this a late night out. For those who feel like boogying the night away, Mama's Pub and Restaurant is just the place to go. Nightly top local DJ's get the place bobbing with a mix of hits from the last 20 years, and every other Saturday it's Latino night, where the best latin dancers you're ever likely to see outside Cuba or the clubs of New York, swirl around the dance floor.