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Fashion. Tyubeteyka

Tyubeteyka (in Tatar - "tyubetey" from Turkic word "tyube" means "top") is a national embroidered scull-cap worn not only by Uzbeks but also by other Central Asian nations. Tatars from Volga wear tyubeteyka, It Is also known In Afghanistan, Iran, Turkish and China.

Originally tyubeteykas were of conical shape and had broad sides worn under the turban. Under it they put on another scull-cap "arakchln" made of pure cotton cloth without embroidery. Beginning since the XXth century the shapes of tyubeteykas have been changed becoming more diverse: pointed, conical, half-spherical, round, and tetrahedral... They can have high or short sides being trimmed with one-colored selvedge of silk, velvet or other fabric.

In recent times almost all people have tyubeteykas: men, women, children (Including Infants) and old men. Middle-aged woman didn't wear tyubeteykas. More often tetrahedral and conical tyubeteykas can be found among them, They were given such forms right after finishing the process of manufacturing, They folded tyubeteyka In particular way as If divided it Into four parts, Two opposite ones formed triangle. Another two parts tucked into them being bent in two. Ready-made tyubeteyka of this shape, slightly moistened, is put under press and after that it acquires tetrahedral shape symbol of four parts of the world. In the XlXth century men's tyubeteyka was half hidden in the folds of turban obliging for all Moslems. As to women's ones only women called "atang" (fops, dandles) wore tyubeteykas In the XlXth century. Being In the society of other women they Imitated men's behavior. Tyubeteykas were made of cloth embroidered in most cases with silk, gold and silver thread. Cotton and velvet were considered to be the most appropriate fabrics for tyubeteyka but they willingly used sateen, flannelette, brocade and silk of many colors, The most gifted graphic artists- so called "kalamkash" or "chizmakash"- embroidered the patterns. Patterns were created and drawn on the ready-made cloth usually with thinly sharpen reed "kalam" and Ink or Indian ink.

If fabric is of dark color the pattern is drawn in solution of yellow paint thickened by sugar or syrup, Brightly embroidered tyubeteykas bear decorative depictions of those plants which equally with their decorative purpose posses some curative power and were used in treating various diseases, There are four flowers on the upper part of tyubeteyka as If traditionally guarding man's health from all four sides and sixteen ones becoming wishes to have a large family (at least 16 children). A wavy stem of bindweed stands for wealth and vitality. Plant patterns are often livened up by depiction of motley birds, Ideas of happiness are connected with them, Cock and pheasant feathers were used against the evil eye and these birds themselves were considered to be sacred, According to ancient Turkic beliefs a bird embodies human soul. Being a symbol of soul it is attached Importance to be intermediary creature between real and mythic worlds, Almond-shaped motive "bodom" Is related to symbolic realm of life and fertility. Its more slender and stretched shapes are called "klampir" (capsfcum). In Uzbekistan children (newborns and Infants in first place) and women who need help (those of childbirth) are protected from evil eye using amulets with almond or capsicum inside them.

Symbolic depletion of sheep's horns that embody strength, courage and protection Is used among zoomorphic motives; pattern of Its spiral variant as they suggest, is an ancient cosmological motive (the universe and its eternal motion), Depletion of colled snake Is also widely spread, It was a totem animal embody ing good and evil origin, The pattern "lion Izi" (snake tracks) also functions as amulet, Fish depletion is a symbol at women fertility.

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